Look, up in the sky… It’s a bird, it’s a plane, it’s… the sun?

DANANG, VIETNAM – During the entire seven months Melanie and I lived in Hanoi I don’t think we were ever seriously at risk for getting a sunburn.

Most days in Hanoi the sky was sort of a dull gray. Sometimes we were pretty sure the sun must be lurking up there somewhere, and occasionally the sky might have a slightly bluish tint or a few fluffy clouds, but mainly it was just a dingy gray.

But things are a little different now that we’ve moved to Danang. Let me explain…

For Hanoi’s chronic gray skies we could mainly thank the coal-fired power plants ringing the city that spew forth towering black smoke plumes as they struggle to meet the growing demand for electricity for manufacturing and a rapidly growing population.

Other major factors are the smoky coal- and charcoal-fired cooking burners all over the city – in individual homes and in countless streetside food stalls – as well as the exhaust from millions of motorcycles, most of which probably couldn’t pass the emission standards we take for granted in the U.S.

After 7 months in the tropics our skin still glowed white

So given Hanoi’s “protective” layer of pollution masking the sun, we were rarely subjected to enough ultraviolet rays to get a sunburn, let alone anything resembling a tan. After living seven months in the tropics, Mel and I still had skin that “glowed” fluorescent white.

But here in Danang, it’s a different story. We’ve experienced sunny blue skies every day since we arrived. On our first day out, we walked several blocks to the beach and spent maybe half an hour wading in the surf. Back at our temporary B&B “home” we realized that in just that short time outdoors we had both gotten sunburned.

I was wearing my wide-brimmed hat, but the sun’s unfiltered reflection off the water had turned my face bright pink. Mel, who was hatless, had the beginnings of a burn on her head and face, as well as the part of her shoulders that weren’t covered up by her top.

We took this as a warning. Time for us to start seriously taking the sun into account when we go outside during the day.

So what’s different about the amount of sunshine in Danang compared to Hanoi?

For one thing, Hanoi is home to more than 7.5 million residents and over 5 million motorbikes, not to mention a growing number of cars, trucks and buses on the road. And the population in Hanoi is quite densely packed, with lots of narrow streets and alleyways overflowing with traffic.

Vehicles of all kinds end up spending a long time standing still or moving very slowly while trying to get from one place to another – all the while pumping more exhaust fumes into the atmosphere.

Danang has one-fifth the people… and far fewer motorbikes

In contrast, Danang’s population is only about one-fifth the number of people in Hanoi, and there are far fewer motorbikes on the road here. Fewer motorbikes means less pollution.

Also, things seem to be more spread out in Danang, and the roads are a lot wider (as are the sidewalks!). Traffic seems to move along smoothly everywhere we’ve been. We have yet to see any significant traffic jams here.

There are plenty of sidewalk food stalls in our new Danang neighborhood, but again, they’re not as concentrated as they were in Hanoi. And I’ve seen a lot of the food stalls here using propane-fired grills instead of the coal or charcoal they use in Hanoi. That makes for a lot less smoke and soot added to the air.

A recent article from Viet Nam News cited Danang’s current initiative to encourage installation of solar power projects by homeowners, businesses and the city itself.

These projects, including solar water heating and electricity generation, have already eliminated thousands of tons of carbon particulate emissions, and the new installations already planned will eliminate many thousands of additional tons of pollution each year.

Steady onshore winds keep the smog away

While the growing number of solar installations will certainly cut down on pollution, I think the biggest factor in having cleaner air in Danang and, thus, more sun rays reaching the ground is the constant breeze blowing ashore from the South China Sea. Any smog that might be generated in the city is just blown away.

Seeing blue skies and bright sunshine when we go outdoors is a nice change for us. We’re more than willing to risk the occasional sunburn in exchange for breathing air we can’t see. (And it doesn’t hurt that the steady breeze cuts down on the number of mosquitos lurking in the shadows).

Right now it’s time for us to go work on that suntan.